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icons we love

“every designer gets inspiration by the ones who’ve come before her. here are a few of my favorites.” – mona

franco moschino:

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a total iconoclast for an icon, the court jester of fashion, franco moschino was mischievous and amusing – even when making important statements about life. moschino design stands for originality, imagination, laugher, peace, love, beauty and realness. his advertisements are a welcome change from the everday commercialism of fashion magazines. not to mention the clothes are beyond-the-beyond gorgeous and in real life, they are absolutely wearable. for him, fashion was entertainment, as one could clearly see in his fashion shows in which models were sent crawling on the catwalk, jackets with embroidery spelling out “very expensive jacket” and the minnie mouse and olive oyl (of popeye fame) collections.

moschino quotes:

  1. warning: fashion shows can be dangerous to your health.
  2. life is many attitudes, so is fashion.
  3. good taste doesn’t exist.
  4. stop the fashion system!
  5. fashion-fashoff
  6. ready to where?
  7. ceci n’est pas une boutique.
  8. i think fashion is something you can laugh about forever but in the end, it’s the most difficult thing to laugh at because people take it so seriously.
  9. what i have loved and still love about pop is its schizophrenia and distortion, it’s three-dimensionality and sensorial confusion…am i a bit pop? i won’t deny it.
  10. in love we trust

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diana vreeland:

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diana vreeland is the great guru of fashion.  in addition to out-of-this solar system taste, a fascinating life, an amazing face, and attitude before people knew what it really was, these are just a few of the things she dictated. who said fashion can’t be deep?

vreeland quotes:

  1. elegance is innate. it has nothing to do with being well dressed. elegance is refusal.
  2. the only real elegance is in the mind; if you’ve got that, the rest really comes from it.
  3. pleasure is everything.
  4. i always wear my sweater back-to-front; it is so much more flattering.
  5. vulgarity is a very important ingredient in life.
  6. never fear being vulgar, just boring.
  7. what do i think about the way most people dress? most people are not something one thinks about.
  8. people who eat white bread have no dreams.
  9. balenciaga did the most delicious evening clothes. clothes aren’t delicious any more.
  10. without emotion there is no beauty.

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elsa schiaparelli:

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at the top of her game in the 1930’s, her designs were inspired by the art movements of the time. the influence of surrealism could be seen in her famous lamb chop hat, the aptly named “shocking” perfume bottle which was shaped like a curvaceous woman’s torso (eventually to inspire jean paul gaultier’s namesake perfume bottle in the 1990’s) and trompe l’oeil dress prints designed by salvador dali and jean cocteau to imitate torn paper, newsprint, etc. it was she who coined the term “shocking pink”. she also originated the modern fashion show, with new ideas such as music, entertainment, and models working the clothes.

known as “schiap” by the people who loved her, she was among many other things, the rival designer that coco chanel called “that italian artist who makes dresses”. schiaparelli returned the favor by referring to chanel as “the little bourgeoise”.

she once made a ball gown of only one length of fabric and wrapped it around her body, with no fastenings. as the evening wore on, it began to unravel, of course creating a sensation, darling.

many modern designers who are now considered fashion-forward have gone fashion backward to the 30’s and been inspired by schiap’s designs.

  1. in difficult times, fashion is always outrageous.
  2. fashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt.
  3. never fit a dress to the body but train the body to fit the dress.
  4. women dress alike all over the world: they dress to be annoying to other women.
  5. goat’s milk. i was raised on goat’s milk.

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issey miyake:

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the first time i saw an issey miyake design, i was an art student in the 80’s and one of his pieces was on the cover of artforum magazine. how to describe something so unique? the model was wearing a textured skirt made of black vinyl rectangles crisscrossing each other across the body and on top she wore a bamboo samurai-type bustier with huge shoulders and nothing underneath. or at least that’s how i remember it. her hair was slicked back and the feel was masculine/feminine but not in a macho/withering way – it suggested the strongest elements of both genders, confrontational, western and japanese. with just enough money in my bag, i excitedly bought the magazine, knowing this was the shape of things to come.

consistently breaking boundaries of drape, form, concept and technical engineering, miyake has created tattoo-print bodysuits, developed innovative techniques for pleating fabric; twisted fabrics to create texture; and has collaborated with other artists and designers. his work is pure. it is poetry, art and design.